Inkstitch/Embroidery vs printing

Guide · Choosing a method

Embroidery, DTF, DTG
or screen print —
which one, when.

Four methods, one question: which will make this garment look right, last, and cost what it should. We run all four under one roof in Bahrain, so there is no reason to steer you to the one we happen to own. Here is how we actually choose — by garment, by quantity and by artwork — with the trade-offs spelled out.

01

The four methods in one minute

  • Embroidery. Thread stitched through the fabric from a digitized file. Physical texture, the most durable finish, reads premium. Logos and lettering; caps, polos, hoodies, bags, uniforms. Cannot do photographs or gradients, and thin fabrics pucker under big designs.
  • DTF (direct to film). Artwork printed onto a film with a powdered adhesive, then heat-pressed onto the garment. Full colour on almost any fabric — cotton, polyester, blends, nylon — with vivid, opaque colour on dark garments. Slightly plasticised hand on large solid areas; stretches without cracking.
  • DTG (direct to garment). Water-based ink printed straight into cotton fibres, with a white underbase on dark garments. Photographic detail and the softest hand; one piece upwards. Cotton only, and the least opaque on dark polyester blends.
  • Screen printing. Ink pushed through a mesh screen, one screen per colour. The lowest cost per piece from about fifty pieces, opaque hard-wearing colour, specialty inks. Setup per colour makes small runs and photographs expensive.

02

Side by side

EmbroideryDTFDTGScreen print
FinishRaised thread, texturedSmooth film layer, slight sheenIn the fabric, no layerInk layer, matte or gloss
Hand feelStiff where stitchedSoft to slightly plasticisedSoftestSoft to heavy with coverage
DurabilityOutlasts the garmentVery good; flexes, resists crackingGood; fades slowly like the fabricVery good at volume
ColourSolid thread colours, 12–15 per designUnlimited, vivid, opaque on darkUnlimited, photographic; best on light cottonSpot colours, one screen each; neon, metallic, puff inks
FabricsAlmost anything that can be hoopedCotton, polyester, blends, nylon, canvas100% cotton, high-cotton blendsCotton, blends, polyester with the right ink
Detail limitText ≥ 4 mm, lines ≥ 1 mm, no gradientsFine lines and small text, gradientsPhotographs, gradientsFine for vector; halftones for tone
MinimumNoneNoneNonePays off from about 50 pieces
Cost logicPer position; one-time digitizingPer print by sizePer print by size and dark/lightPer piece by colours, plus screens
CapsBestFlat-panel fronts onlyNoRarely

03

By garment

GarmentFirst choiceAlso worksAvoidWhy
CapsEmbroidery, flat or 3D puffDTF on a flat-panel frontDTGA curved, structured twill surface that thread handles and ink doesn't
T-shirts, 100% cottonDTG for 1–50; screen print for 50+DTFLarge embroiderySoft hand on cotton; thin jersey puckers under big stitched areas
T-shirts, polyester or blendsDTFScreen print at volumeDTGDTG ink needs cotton fibre to bond
Hoodies and sweatshirtsEmbroidery for logos; DTG or DTF for artworkScreen print for 50+—Fleece takes bold embroidery; prints need a smooth face
PolosEmbroideryDTF for small flat marksDTGPiqué texture breaks up a print; a stitched left-chest logo is the standard
Tote bagsEmbroidery for logos; screen print for volumeDTF for full-face artwork—Heavy canvas suits thread and screens alike
Uniforms and workwearEmbroideryScreen print for hi-vis and event teesDTG on polyester hi-visIndustrial laundering; thread survives it
Jackets, softshell and nylonEmbroidery or an embroidered patchDTFDTGSynthetic shells; a patch avoids perforating a waterproof membrane
Towels and bathrobesEmbroidery—Any printPile fabric; print sinks and washes out
Sportswear and performanceDTFSmall embroidery with no-show backingDTGLight stretch polyester wants a thin, flexible transfer
Children's wear and babywearDTG on cottonDTFHeavy embroiderySoft hand; no stiff backing against skin

04

By quantity

  • 1–10 pieces. DTG or DTF for prints, embroidery for logos. No setup except a one-time digitizing fee for a new embroidered logo. This is how brands sample a drop.
  • 10–50 pieces. The same methods; the per-piece price falls as hooping and pressing run in batches. Screen printing is not yet worth the screens.
  • 50–200 pieces. Screen printing becomes the cheapest route for a flat design in one to three colours. Embroidery holds its price per position. DTF stays competitive for full-colour artwork.
  • 200 pieces and up. Screen print for prints, embroidery for logos, and a stitched or printed sample approved before the run. Lead times are scheduled to the date rather than the usual 3–5 working days.

05

By artwork

  • A logo or lettering. Embroidery, unless the lettering is under 4 mm or the garment is a thin tee — then DTF.
  • A photograph or illustration with gradients. DTG on cotton; DTF on anything else. Thread cannot do either.
  • Flat spot colours, one to three. Screen print from fifty pieces; DTF below that.
  • Neon, metallic or glow effects. Screen-print specialty inks at volume; metallic thread or DTF foil effects for small runs.
  • A different name or number on every piece. Embroidery for names on polos, caps and bags; DTF for printed names and numbers on tees and sportswear.
  • Very large coverage, full front or back. DTG or DTF on tees and hoodies; screen print at volume; embroidery only as appliqué or on heavy fleece and canvas.

06

Durability and care

Embroidery and screen printing last the longest over hundreds of washes. DTF is highly elastic and resists cracking on stretch fabrics. DTG sits inside the fibres, so there is nothing to peel; it fades slowly, the way the garment does. All four want the same care: wash inside out, cold or warm, no bleach on prints or rayon thread, no iron directly on the decoration, and never on 3D puff.

07

How each is priced

Embroidery is priced per position — front, left chest, sleeve — plus a one-time digitizing fee for a new logo (BHD 3.000–5.000 at Inkstitch) that is never charged again. DTF and DTG are priced per print by size, and DTG by light or dark garment; neither has a setup. Screen printing is priced per piece by the number of colours, plus screens, which is why it only wins from about fifty pieces. At Inkstitch, decoration on a garment you supply starts from BHD 1.500 for a print or a cap position and BHD 2.000 for a left-chest embroidered logo; garments included are quoted per job. Send the artwork, the garment and the quantity and we'll say which method, and why, with the price.

Questions

Asked, answered

Which lasts longer, embroidery or printing?

Embroidery, then screen printing. Thread is colourfast polyester stitched through the fabric, so it outlasts the garment; screen-print ink is cured into the fibres. DTF is very durable and flexible; DTG fades slowly with the fabric but has no layer to peel.

Is embroidery or printing cheaper?

For one logo on a few pieces they cost about the same: embroidery from BHD 2.000 per left-chest logo plus one-time digitizing, a print from BHD 1.500. Printing is cheaper for large artwork; screen printing is cheapest of all from about fifty pieces of a flat design.

Is DTF better than DTG?

Different jobs. DTG gives the softest, most photographic print on 100% cotton. DTF works on any fabric, is more vivid on dark garments and stretches without cracking, with a slightly more noticeable surface. Cotton tee: DTG. Polyester, blends, hard wear or bright colour on black: DTF.

What is the best method for caps?

Embroidery — flat or 3D puff. Caps are curved and structured, which thread handles and ink doesn't. For a photographic design on a flat-panel cap, DTF is the alternative.

What is the best method for hoodies?

Embroidery for a logo or lettering, DTG or DTF for large artwork, and screen printing from about fifty pieces of one design. Many drops combine an embroidered chest logo with a printed back.

What is the best method for tote bags?

Embroidery for a logo you want to look premium, screen printing for hundreds of event bags, DTF for full-face artwork in smaller numbers. Heavy cotton canvas takes all three well.

Can you print or embroider on polyester?

Yes. DTF prints on polyester, blends and nylon; embroidery works on polyester knits with a ballpoint needle and no-show backing; screen printing needs the right ink. DTG does not bond to polyester.

Which method for 500 staff t-shirts?

Screen printing for a flat logo in one to three colours — the lowest price per piece — with a printed sample approved first. If the design is full-colour or photographic, DTF. For staff polos and caps in the same order, embroidery.

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Artwork, garment and quantity on WhatsApp, and we'll tell you the method, the reason and the price the same working day.